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Thread: Speaker hookup question

  1. #81
    Administrator Gepetto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WOPL Sniffer View Post
    After seeing the PDF that Ed posted about the 700 Service manual., page 10 shows the troubleshooting section... Number 3 just about says it all (popping/clicking/strange sounds)....

    Attachment 29114
    That is the SOA protection kicking in.

  2. #82
    Forum Veteran FredR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gepetto View Post
    That is the SOA protection kicking in.
    Hence my decision, based on Joe's input, to disable SOA protection my WOPLs driving low impedance loads.
    Last edited by FredR; 05-10-2017 at 06:46 PM.

  3. #83
    Quote Originally Posted by WOPL Sniffer View Post
    After seeing the PDF that Ed posted about the 700 Service manual., page 10 shows the troubleshooting section... Number 3 just about says it all (popping/clicking/strange sounds)....

    Attachment 29114

    I am glad to see that someone is actually reading these old "owner's manuals" for the original Phase Linear 700's I recently posted.
    The "snapping an popping sound" statement also appears in the 700B owner's manual on page 10.

    Here are just a few observations.........

    The original Phase Linear 700 owner's manual (Seattle Washington version) most likely was written at a time when the Phase 700 only had a total of (12) output transistors, and (4) drivers. Very few of the amps were made with only (12) output transistors.
    This is more than likely the reason why the thermal cutouts occurs at 70 degrees C.

    The later Edmonds Washington version was written when there were a total of (20) output transistors.
    "Using a temperature sensitive crayon (Thermal Stik or equivalent) verify that cut out occurs between 80 and 95 degrees Centigrad".
    NOTE: This comment also appears in the 700B owner's manual.

    The Edmonds Washington (700) and Lynnwood Washington (700B) owner's manual have a number of things in common. Here are just a few:

    Under "Operating Area", I thought it was interesting how they created a 4 ohm load by using (4) 16 ohm 15" woofers (JBL D-140, LE-15A or equivalent) and hooking them up in parallel.

    Under "Operating Precautions To Observe During Testing".... "During a dead short, the output transistors experience stresses that are approximately three times those that occur during normal full output. Never short the output...."

    The original Phase Linear 700 service manual on page 7 "Step 5" "....Short circuit the output terminals with a jumper, and drive the input of the amplifier at 20 Hz. Slowly increase the variac from 0 volts to 117 volts. Remove the short circuit jumper and verify that the amplifier resumes normal operation."

    (Essentially the same statement is made in the 700/700B service manual "Prepared 6/76".)

    The 700/700B service manual revised 2/81 on page 20 step 5.7 "Short circuit test. states: Drive the left channel with a 200 Hz signal at an output level of 53VRMS. Now short the output terminals with a jumper wire for 2 to 4 seconds. Remove the jumper wire and verify that the amplifier resumes normal operation. Repeat for the right channel".

    The way Dean taught me was this later method. That is to drive the amplifier at 200 Hz, at full output and then short the output. This is to verify proper operation of the protection circuit and identify any oscillations that may occur (and cure them per the service bulletin #7721) as well as to stress or identify (cause to fail) any weak or defective output transistors.

    The transformers in both versions of the 700 owner's manual are listed as 2.5 kilowatts.
    The 700B and 700 series two owner's and service manuals do not indicate how many kilowatts the transformer is.

    Last edited by oldphaser; 05-11-2017 at 07:04 AM.

  4. #84
    laatsch55's Avatar
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    Finally a KV rating on a 700- transformer!!
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  5. #85
    Forum Veteran WOPL Sniffer's Avatar
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    Screw it
    Quote Originally Posted by Northwinds View Post
    How do I hook both sets of my CV's to one amp? Is it series so it does not change impedence? How would I do that so as not to hurt my amp. A guy is stacking DQ's w/ a WOPL and my CV's are not amp killers obviously. A diagram of how the wires should be run would be helpful

    Thanks in advance
    Well, the jury is no longer sequestered. Don't just twist wires for 2 pairs of speakers together (even a bad assed WOPL). It WILL BLOW UP SOONER RATHER THAN LATER. Wire them correctly or sign the check brothers.

    Hmmmm, complete set of outputs.... labor.... sweet...... i have a credit card payment due......
    I had the nations problems figured out one night while on blah blah blah........ huh?

    Big amps
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  6. #86
    Forum Veteran grapplesaw's Avatar
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    Aug 2014
    Good read

    anypne got the service bulletin #7721 to post. My files are in need of sorting.
    try the Lightening Bolt WOPL 1000 for a hair lifting experience today

    Warning !!! Use only when you want to blown the town down

    proud father of the only WOPL Fully Comp dual 500

  7. #87
    Forum Veteran grapplesaw's Avatar
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    Aug 2014

    What do you think of this

    Found this on a ebay listing today. I have no idea what he is talking about in undersizing speaker wire

    16 AWG, Teflon Insulated, Stranded, Silver Plated Copper Wire.
    High Temp - Mil spec.
    "PTFE Silver Plated Stranded Copper Wire" provides a dramatic improvement in sound quality for your loudspeakers - clearer sound, better sharper treble. Aged copper wire has terrible sound quality.

    PURPLE AND YELLOW, 16 AWG, Internal speaker PTFE Insulated Silver Plated Stranded Copper Wire. 12 feet as twisted.

    What I use this for and always find provides exquisite improvements to sound quality is internal speaker wiring upgrades. I can compare the sound quality of this wire to solid silver for 10% of the cost yielding 80 - 90% of the sound quality improvement.

    Why remove copper wire from inside your loudspeakers? Copper oxidizes and forms a brown semi-conductor coating. Semiconductors are active circuits and copper oxide causes severe degrading of sound quality. While a new speaker can be clear and neutral sounding, after a few months oxygen in the air seeps into the wiring and the sound quality reduces, within a short time harshness and listener fatigue set in. Even worse, if there is any sulfur in the air from certain sheetrock products, local sulfur dioxide air pollution, etc. copper sulfide forms on the wire surface and will cause an awful harshness and severely unpleasant listener fatique.

    16 AWG is perfect for mid-woofers, woofers in a 3-way or Sub-Woofers.

    Do not oversize wire - ohms per hundred feet is not the bigger parameter of sound quality. - INDUCTANCE is and twisted pairs of modest wire guage have lower inductance. Also, the maximum frequency for 100% skin depth is 11KHz for 16AWG. And 16AWG has 22 maximuum Amps for chassis wiring.

    I use 20AWG (27KHz) and 22 AWG (42KHz) for Tweeters.

    Most A/V receivers are only 50 to 80 watts, despite claiming 100 watts plus, so larger wire is not needed. 100 watts of constant power (music is usually 1 to 5 watts at full volume with only intermittent higher draw) has only 3-1/2 amps with an 8 ohm speaker. In a 2-way speaker the tweeter uses a very small percentage of the power.

    So just look at the crimps on the speaker terminals.
    Copper wire? REPLACE IT!

    When handling the wire, first: Wipe your hands with some rubbing alcohol to remove oil and skin acid. When removing teflon insulation pinch the strippers around carefully since teflon doesn't tear like PVC. NEVER touch a conductor. Seriously, I've seen fingerprints on aged copper pipes that standout from the brown oxide! If it needs to be twisted wear nitrile painters gloves (cheap and available at Lowes, Home Depot, Walmart, and any hardware store).

    Remove the old solder first Solder the wires directly onto the speaker terminals with silver content electronics solder or for best sound use a Cardas Eutectic solder. Standard solder must be the 63/37 type only. Place the speaker in a way that any drip will not land on the speaker! Even better make a small shield of aluminum foil protecting the speaker from rosin smoke or splash.

    I twist the wires by clamping them to a table and hand braid them, then I attach a drill to get two twists per inch, LET IT HOLD FOR A MINUTE THEN BACK IT OFF SO IT DOESN'T SNAG ON ITSELF. Twisted pair wiring has lowered inductance which reduces phase shift and treble decay.

    I always love the improvement to a speaker's performance, clearer sound and naturally sharper treble.

    I have other colors for sale, message me for an eBay # and that will be less for shipping.

    try the Lightening Bolt WOPL 1000 for a hair lifting experience today

    Warning !!! Use only when you want to blown the town down

    proud father of the only WOPL Fully Comp dual 500

  8. #88
    Forum Veteran
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    "I have no idea what he is talking about in undersizing speaker wire."

    Neither does he...

  9. #89
    Forum Veteran Skratch's Avatar
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  10. #90
    Administrator jbeckva's Avatar
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    Mains - "Frankey", the WOPL'd 700 "in disguise", Backplaned With Fully Complementary Output Stage / Sansui AU-517 (Pre Only) / CV D-9's (mod'd)
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